By Rob Greenwood
The Mincer has long been on the my extensive list of classic HVS sandbags to be...well... sandbagged on! I remember seeing the route on my first ever trip to the Roaches and marvelling at how implausible it looked for HVS (a grade I felt happy climbing in North Wales). Upon actually climbing it I distinctly remember onceagain marvelling, but this time at at how implausible it actually felt for HVS!!!
Rather than give an exhaustive account of every move I'll give a few key pointers to a successful ascent:
- Take a good range of camming devices (up to size 4 or 5) so you don't have to hang around for too long...
- Take time on the first section as its probably the 'technical crux' of the route
- Take time on the middle section because it is UNDOUBTEDLY the 'thrutchy crux' of the route!
- Watch 'Upside Down Wales' prior to your ascent and take notes on George Smith's use of knee bars, 'jiggery-pokery', and unrelenting thuggery!!
- Be wary of rope drag - keep those runners extended (its hard enough as it is).