Route Review: The Mincer, The Roaches

By Rob Greenwood

The Mincer has long been on the my extensive list of classic HVS sandbags to be...well... sandbagged on! I remember seeing the route on my first ever trip to the Roaches and marvelling at how implausible it looked for HVS (a grade I felt happy climbing in North Wales). Upon actually climbing it I distinctly remember onceagain marvelling, but this time at at how implausible it actually felt for HVS!!!

Rather than give an exhaustive account of every move I'll give a few key pointers to a successful ascent:

1. Take a good range of camming devices (up to size 4 or 5) so you don't have to hang around for too long...
2. Take time on the first section as its probably the 'technical crux' of the route
3. Take time on the middle section because it is UNDOUBTEDLY the 'thrutchy crux' of the route!
4. Watch 'Upside Down Wales' prior to your ascent and take notes on George Smith's use of knee bars, 'jiggery-pokery', and unrelenting thuggery!!
5. Be wary of rope drag - keep those runners extended (its hard enough as it is).
   

(wearing bright blue trousers helps too!!)