Wednesday, 5 November 2008

Route Review: Pleasure Dome, Stennis Head Pembroke

"This is definitely a good idea..."

Plan: To climb Pleasure Dome

Pros: It is an absolutely stunning route, an onsight ascent would certainly bring a smile to my face, and I've wanted to do it for ages

Cons: The range only opens at 5pm, it looks quite steep, the holds (certainly at one section) look implausibly small, its starting to get dark, I've been climbing all day and lifting my arms above my head (regardless of whether or not I'm climbing) seems to make me feel pumped...

Check Spellingnote: I haven't made a great deal of progress and the aforementioned 'pump' is becoming increasingly worse

Its getting darker... much darker. Drastic measures such as the chicken wing and Darth Vader puffing noises are utilised with a degree of success.

Recommended Gear:

  • Extenders - Don't even think about setting out en-route without them! Drag could determine your whether or not your successful... In fact, investing in a DMM Revolver or two wouldn't go amiss (anything to make the route feel easier!)
  • A good blend of wires and camming devices - theres a lot of gear to be found but it is quite tiring to get it in around the crux moves.
  • A large pair of forearms
  • 10 extremely strong fingers
  • A good 'trad' head - outrageous positions have the potential to intimidate somewhat!

1 comment:

oscar said...

It may be a bonus having ten strong fingers, but ask yourself, what are you going to do when faced with a thumb sprag??