Saturday 4 April 2009

Spring is (almost) here!!!

The clocks have gone back, the sun is just about out, and the crags up the Pass are dry...

Over the past week one of the crags that has seen a lot of attention from members of staff is Drws y Gwynt. This underrated and ill-frequented crag is located above/between Craig Ddu and the Grochan and involved a relatively straightforward 20 minute shuffle up the hillside. The reason this crag is of particular interest is that because of its location higher up the hillside, it retains the evenings light perfectly and is thus ideal for the avid post-work climber!!

The routes include:
  • Touch of Class - E1 5b - Superb route, albeit a little tricky for the grade consisting of stunning rough rock and great moves.
  • Little Sepulcre - VS 4b - Worth a few minutes of anyones time! The corner crack was built for camming devices and devious bridging maneuvers.. Wouldn't look out of place on Stanage.
  • Too Hard for Jim Perrin - E1 5c - Possibly the most famous route on the crag, in part owing to its name! Rumour has it that Jim Perrin walked up it onsight... Local Wad/ Nice Guy Jim 'Big Guns' McCormack from V12 said it was pretty spicy which, from a man who regularly sends 8a, is reasonable cause for concern!!!
  • Cracked Arete - Severe (and it feels it too!!!) - Formerly the hardest VDiff on the North side of the Pass, beware the offwidth finish...
  • Cromlech Ithig - E1 5b - A quick 2008 addition to the crag courtesy of guidebook writer Iwan Arfon Jones. This slab climb was found to be of impeccable quality, however just a 'tad' on the bold side ('alarming' was the word of choice I believe)
Pictures to follow...

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