Tuesday, 2 June 2009

Everything is DRY!

North Wales is currently buzzing with excitement due to the recent spell of hot weather.

However, its looking like the good times are going to change later on in the week so get out quick!!!

On Monday Rob and Rich had a stunning day up at Cloggy, heres a short review of each of the routes they climbed:
  • Llithrig E1 5c - A Joe Brown special! Devious route finding up and across a very blank wall, the question is which is easier: the intimidating pendulum or the 'free' technical traverse?! You make up your mind, but we freed it purely because it looked easier!!
  • The Spire Direct E4 5c - The Direct version of 'The Spire' straightens out the line and vastly improves the quantity and aesthetic value of the climbing - unfortunately the protection, which was already pretty poor, is probably even worse hence the infamous bold 'E4 5c' cache! Technically easy but earth shatteringly bold... Anyone wishing to do this climb would be advised to carry a number of the Mammut 8mm x 60cm Slings and the Black Diamond Micro Stopper Set because, quite frankly, there isn't much else!
  • The Axe E4 6a - Outrageous... This unbelievable line takes the surreal overhanging arete just beyond Shrike. It features 50m of disbelief, generally positive holds, and incredible exposure - there aren't enough superlatives for this climb!!!. Take a LOT of quickdraws for this one, perhaps take advantage of the DMM Prowire Quickdraw Set of 5.
  • The Troach E2 5b - Hugh Banner's bold wall climbing materpiece takes the centre of the blank wall to the right of Curving Crack and still feels, despite the advent of modern protection, pretty out there (especially for the end of the day)!

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