Experimenting with George Smith inspired 'heel-toe jiggery pokery' on Parabolica Spherique), Gandia (7a+)
Just had two fantastic days climbing single pitch rock - a welcome change of pace!
Gandia stole the show, Spanish sports climbing at its best: steep, wild, juggy, and totally outrageous! Although the crag has a great number of three-star 7's, it also has some incredible 6's and should be on the itintery of anyone visiting the area. Of particular interest was El Sol (6b) that rated as one of the best routes of its grade that I have ever climbed: huge holds, interesting features, and utterly classic!
My personal highlight was climbing Parabolica Spherique (7a+) where I legitimately used my first ever heel toe above my head whilst on route - madness...
Today we climbed at Pena Roja and Alcalia. The two crags complement eachother perfectly as one gets the morning sun where the other has it in afternoon/evening. Pena Roja had a 6b on-par with El Sol at Gandia - Lliberpool had equally superb sustained climbing on never-ending pockets, the only downside was the polish.
La Belle (7b) at Pena Roja - reckon I may have been in with a chance with this route if I'd had enough skin left on my fingertips!!
A personal high point for me was climbing 'Le Baton' as it was my first 7b, despite feeling wrecked from 6 days climbing I managed it on my second attempt - this now means that in the last month I've managed to climb Grade V Winter in Wales, E5 on rock (the day before I left for Costa Blanca), and now 7b Sport. All I've got to do now is complete my V8 project and I'll be like a poor mans version of Dave McLeod!!
One day to go....