Wednesday, 6 May 2009

Dry, dry, its wet!

Mat Smith (left) on the classic Night Glue, 7a+ and an unknown climber (right) having good rest on the ledge of Jacuzzi Jive, E4 6a

We've had a pretty lucky time with the weather over the past month but this weekend marked the end of the good stuff...

However, some of the more fortunate members of staff managed to make it over to the Orme for some sporting fun on Sunday. Lower Pen Trwyn, despite its fine routes, abundance of sun, and large quantity of eco-bolts isn't usually the most crowded crag around - however - it was totally rammed from start to end and required delving into the esoterica... We climbed Passenger (6a+), a pretty pointless elimate up the left wall of the Cynical Pinnacle (XS) that served as a 'satisfactory' warm up for Voodoo Child (7a).

Local freelance instructor Mat Smith managed a long overdue ascent of Night Glue 7a+. For those operating around the 7a+ mark it is without question one of the finest (if not THE finest) on the Orme alongside Axel Attack and Homo Sapien - get on it!!

Rob then proceeded to dispell a few myths on Mean Mother 7b - in short, don't be off-put due to claims of it being "more E5 6b than 7b" and "hard to place wires" as it is a little over-exaggerated. If you enjoyed Face Race (7a+ just to right) then you'll love Mean Mother!!

White Hopes 7b - a route that is significantly steeper than it looks!

During Bank Holidays climbing above the roads is banned before 6pm so at 5:59 we were uncoiled and raring to go at White Hopes (7b). Unfortunately a combination of Night Gluing and Mean Mothers had rendered our arms somewhat useless so we resigned ourselves to familiarising the moves again... next time perhaps...

While there we used:

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